Slicer Software: How to Prepare Your Model?

Your 3D model is ready, your printer is calibrated, filament is loaded. But something is missing: you need to convert your model file (STL) into commands (G-code) that the printer can understand. This is exactly where slicer software comes into play.

The slicer is the brain of 3D printing. It determines how the model will be printed, at what speed, at what temperature, with how much infill. The same model can produce completely different results with different slicer settings. In this article, we'll examine in depth what a slicer is, popular options, and basic settings.

What Is a Slicer?

A slicer is software that divides a 3D model into horizontal layers and gives instructions to the printer for each layer. Step by step:

1. Load Model You import STL, OBJ, or 3MF file into the slicer.

2. Slicing The software divides the model into hundreds or thousands of horizontal layers. Each layer thickness is between 0.1-0.4 mm.

3. Path Planning For each layer, it calculates how the nozzle will move:

• Walls (perimeter/wall)
• Infill
• Top/bottom surfaces
• Supports

4. G-code Generation Converts all this information into commands the printer can understand:

G1 X100 Y100 E5 F3000
; Go to position X100, Y100, extrude 5mm filament at 3000 mm/min speed

5. Transfer G-code file is sent to the printer via SD card, USB, or WiFi.

Popular Slicer Comparison

1. Cura (Ultimaker) - Most Popular Choice

Platform: Windows, Mac, Linux Price: Free, open source Supported Printers: 600+ printer profiles

Strengths:

• User-friendly interface
• Wide printer support
• Plugin/extension system (OctoPrint, ArcWelder)
• Very strong community support
• "Recommended" settings ideal for beginners
• Tree supports algorithm excellent

Weaknesses:

• Too many settings (can be confusing for beginners)
• Some advanced features hidden (expert mode)
• Slow slicing for large models

User Profile:

• Beginner: ★★★★★
• Advanced: ★★★★☆
• Professional: ★★★☆☆

Standout Features:

• Tree Supports: Minimum contact, easy removal
• Adaptive Layers: Thin layers in detailed areas, thick in flat areas
• Gradual Infill: Denser infill closer to top layers
• Ironing: Makes top surface ultra smooth

Recommendation: If you're new to FDM 3D printing, start with Cura.

2. PrusaSlicer - Open Source Power

Platform: Windows, Mac, Linux Price: Free, open source Supported Printers: Prusa + 50+ other printers

Strengths:

• Optimized for Prusa printers (but works with others)
• Organic supports - better than Cura
• Paint-on supports (paint support with brush)
• Seam placement control
• Filament management (track multiple filaments)
• Variable layer height

Weaknesses:

• Interface slightly more complex than Cura
• Finding profiles for non-Prusa printers can be difficult

User Profile:

• Beginner: ★★★★☆
• Advanced: ★★★★★
• Professional: ★★★★★

Standout Features:

• Organic Supports: Like natural tree branches, minimum material
• Paint-on Supports: Manually add support where you want
• Arachne Engine: Advanced wall algorithm (single-pass thin walls)
• Pressure Advance Calibration: Print quality optimization

Recommendation: Ideal if you have a Prusa printer or want advanced control.

3. Bambu Studio - Next Generation Speed

Platform: Windows, Mac, Linux Price: Free (for Bambu Lab printers) Supported Printers: Bambu Lab (and some other printers - limited)

Strengths:

• Very fast slicing (10x faster than Cura)
• AI-assisted settings (automatic optimization)
• Perfect for multi-color/multi-material
• Real-time preview
• Cloud integration (store designs in cloud)
• Camera integration (on Bambu printers)

Weaknesses:

• Full support only for Bambu Lab printers
• Limited features on other printers
• Closed ecosystem (no community plugins)

User Profile:

• Beginner (with Bambu): ★★★★★
• Advanced: ★★★★★
• Professional: ★★★★☆

Standout Features:

• AMS Integration: Automatic filament change for 4-color printing
• Adaptive Pressure Advance: Speed and quality optimization
• Flow Calibration: Automatic flow calibration
• Handy (Mobile App): Control printer from phone

Recommendation: If you have a Bambu Lab printer, definitely use Bambu Studio.

4. Simplify3D - Paid Option

Platform: Windows, Mac, Linux Price: $150 (one-time payment)

Why Paid:

• Professional support
• Very advanced settings
• Multi-process (different settings within one print)

Suitable For: Professional users, commercial production

Note: Popularity decreased with development of free alternatives.

Comparison Table

Basic Slicer Settings

1. Layer Height

What It Does: Thickness of each layer

Value Range: 0.04 mm - 0.4 mm (for FDM)

Effect:

• Thin Layer (0.1 mm): More detailed, smoother, but VERY slow
• Medium Layer (0.2 mm): Balance point, ideal for most prints
• Thick Layer (0.3 mm): Fast but detail loss, layer lines visible

Recommendation:

• Detailed figure: 0.12 mm
• General use: 0.2 mm
• Quick prototype: 0.28 mm

Rule: Between 25-80% of nozzle diameter. For 0.4 mm nozzle → 0.1-0.32 mm

2. Wall Count (Perimeters)

What It Does: Thickness of outer shell

Value: 2-4 walls (typically)

Effect:

• Fewer Walls (2): Light, less material, weak
• More Walls (4): Strong, durable, heavy

Recommendation:

• Visual model: 2-3 walls
• Functional part: 3-4 walls
• Mechanical stress: 4+ walls

3. Infill

What It Does: Density of internal structure

Value: 0% - 100%

Effect:

• 0%: Completely empty (vase mode)
• 10-20%: Light, general use
• 50%: Medium strength
• 100%: Completely solid (very heavy, rarely needed)

Infill Patterns:

• Grid: Fast, general purpose
• Gyroid: Strong, equal in all directions
• Cubic: Very strong
• Lightning: Very fast, minimum material (for support purposes)

Recommendation:

• Decorative: 10-15%
• Functional: 20-30%
• Mechanical stress: 40-60%
• Rarely need 100% (wasteful)

4. Print Speed

What It Does: Nozzle movement speed

Value: 40-300+ mm/s (depends on printer)

Effect:

• Slow (40-60 mm/s): High quality, less vibration
• Medium (60-100 mm/s): Balance
• Fast (150-300 mm/s): Quick print, quality loss possible

Different Speeds:

• Walls: Slow (for quality)
• Infill: Fast (not visible)
• First layer: Very slow (adhesion)
• Bridges: Medium-fast (prevent sagging)

Recommendation:

• Beginner: 50-60 mm/s
• Experienced: 80-120 mm/s
• Modern fast printers (Bambu, Prusa MK4): 200-300 mm/s

5. Temperatures

Nozzle Temperature:

• PLA: 200-215°C
• PETG: 230-250°C
• ABS: 240-260°C
• TPU: 210-230°C

Bed Temperature:

• PLA: 50-60°C (or none)
• PETG: 70-80°C
• ABS: 90-110°C
• TPU: 40-60°C

Note: Every filament brand is different. Follow recommendations on package, test.

6. Retraction

What It Does: Prevents stringing

Settings:

• Distance: How much filament retracts (typically 1-6 mm)
• Speed: Retraction speed (25-45 mm/s)

Bowden vs Direct Drive:

• Bowden: More retraction (4-6 mm)
• Direct Drive: Less retraction (1-2 mm)

Support Structures

When Is It Needed?

45 Degree Rule: If overhang (hanging part) is more than 45 degrees, support is needed.

Examples:

• Needed: T-shaped arm, head, bridges (long distance)
• Not Needed: Pyramid, cone (angle below 45°)

Support Types

1. Normal Supports Support with grid or lines pattern. Support everywhere.

2. Tree Supports (Cura, Bambu) Like tree branches, only touches necessary places. Easy removal, less material.

3. Organic Supports (PrusaSlicer) Natural, organic shapes. Better than tree, less marks.

4. Paint-on Supports (PrusaSlicer) Manual control. Add support where you want.

Support Settings

Support Density: 10-20% typically sufficient

Support Z Distance: Distance between support and model. Too close = hard to remove, too far = model sags.

• Typical: 0.2 mm (1 layer)

Support Interface: Thin intermediate layer between support and model. Smoother surface.

Support Removal Tips

1. Use Appropriate Tool

• Pliers
• Chisel
• Hobby knife

2. While Still Hot on Printer Plastic slightly softer, removal easier.

3. Water Soluble Support PVA (for PLA) or HIPS (for ABS). Dual extruder required. Submerge in water, support dissolves.

Your First Slicing Experience: Step by Step

Model: Simple Vase

1. Download / Create STL Download simple vase model from Thingiverse.

2. Open Slicer (Cura example)

• Select printer profile (Ender 3, Prusa, etc.)
• Select filament type (PLA)

3. Load Model

• File → Open or Drag-Drop
• Model appears on print bed

4. Basic Settings

• Layer: 0.2 mm
• Infill: 15%
• Support: Activate if needed
• Adhesion: Brim (edge around first layer)

5. Slice Press "Slice" button. Time and material amount shown.

6. Preview Preview layer by layer. Check support locations.

7. Save Send G-code to SD card or directly to printer.

8. PRINT!

Common Mistakes and Solutions

1. First Layer Not Sticking

Why: Bed distance wrong, temperature low Solution: Bed leveling, adhesive (stick, spray), increase bed temperature

2. Stringing

Why: Insufficient retraction, temperature high Solution: Increase retraction distance, lower nozzle temperature

3. Warping

Why: Fast cooling, bed cold Solution: Increase bed temperature, enclosed chamber, use brim/raft

4. Support Marks Bad

Why: Support too close Solution: Increase support Z distance (0.2 → 0.3 mm), use tree supports

Conclusion: Slicer, The Brain of Printing

Slicer settings allow you to get different results from the same model. A beautiful model can print terribly with wrong settings. An ordinary model can look great with correct settings. Too many settings may seem intimidating at first, but:

Beginning: Use default settings Progress: Play with layer, speed, infill Master: Understand all settings, create profiles

The most important part: Trial and error. Every printer, every filament is different. Create your own profile, test, take notes.

In our next article, we'll look in detail at print problems and solutions. Warping, stringing, layer adhesion... We'll solve them all!